Patternmaking For Underwear Design.pdf ((install)) May 2026

Patternmaking for Underwear Design by Dr. Kristina Shin is a comprehensive guide featuring professional-grade methods for drafting and grading custom-fit bras, panties, and foundation garments. The 2nd edition introduces specialized techniques for creating foundational blocks from individual measurements. Find technical previews and related drafting resources on Scribd. Patternmaking for Underwear Design 2nd Edition

Step 3: Leg Openings

The leg line must be concave at the front (to clear the hip joint) and convex at the back (to wrap under the glute). Your PDF will show you exactly where to shave off 1cm of fullness at the front leg crease. Patternmaking For Underwear Design.pdf

Step 4: Adjust for Elastic Return

After the toile, compare the stretched fit to the flat pattern. Common adjustments from PDF guides include: Patternmaking for Underwear Design by Dr

• Add 1/4" to the crotch curve if riding up.
• Reduce the bridge (center front) width if wires are poking the sternum.

Chapter 6: Working with Elastics and Bindings

Most standard sewing patterns fail when it comes to elastics. Your specialized PDF must include a section on "elastic ease." Add 1/4" to the crotch curve if riding up

• Fold-over Elastic (FOE): Used for raw edges. Pattern must have a 1cm seam allowance trimmed to 0.5cm after stitching.
• Picot Elastic: used for leg openings. Requires 10% stretch application—pull the elastic slightly as you sew; do not pull the fabric.
• Plush Back Elastic: For waistbands. The PDF should show you the "three-step zigzag" application: stitch the elastic to the wrong side, fold over, topstitch.

A common error in home-drafted PDF patterns is forgetting that elastics do not stretch as much as fabric. If your pattern is drafted for 50% stretch fabric, but you use 30% stretch elastic, the waistband will ripple or curl.